Yesterday, I was doing the rounds, hopping from one cycling site to the other, checking out what's new until I stumbled upon this nice checklist from Bicycling on Spring Bicycle Maintenance. Now, we really don't have spring here in the Philippines. Nonetheless, I really think that some of these are very applicable to us, especially for those who are going back to biking after a long hiatus. Here's the low down :
1. Inspect the frame for cracks
Cracks usually occur near welded areas, or where the frame is butted. Probably the most common spot is the underside of the down tube, just below the head tube. On carbon frames, it can be difficult to tell if you’re looking at a scratch in the clearcoat or a crack in the frame. If your fingernail can catch on the blemish, it might be a crack. If you have your suspicions, go to the shop.
2. Remove and lube your seatpost
Mark the height of your seatpost with tape or a pencil, then remove it, wipe it clean and, if it’s steel or aluminum, smear a light layer of grease over the section that goes inside the frame.
3. Check that wheels are clean and true
Dirty rims interfere with stopping power, so first clean the rims with a slightly abrasive pad, or just scrub hard with a rag soaked in dish soap, and then rinse and dry. Then, check to see if your wheels are wobbling. On warped wheels, the ride is rougher, you have less control, and you could end up on the ground if the wheel folds or a spoke breaks.
4. Adjust or replace your brakes
Glazed brake shoes cause weak braking and impolite squeals. Use sandpaper to buff off the glaze and roughen up the pads. Also pick out dirt, grit or pieces of metal that have become imbedded in the pad. If the pad has hardened so much you can’t scratch it with your fingernail, or if it’s worn past the indicator line, replace it.
5. Check cleats for wear
Worn-out cleats can be dangerous, with less predictable entry and release. They also offer less stability as the cleats float around in the pedal jaws, making you feel disconnected from the bike and ultimately reducing the amount of power you can lay down. Some manufacturers have wear indicators on their cleats. For other brands, watch for gouges and scratches at the engagement points at the front and rear of the cleat. If you have to tighten the tension of your pedals for them to hold your cleats in place, replace the cleats.
6. Clean or replace your chain
Place the edge of a 12-inch ruler over the pin of one link. The 12-inch hash mark should sit over another pin. If it doesn’t, the chain is worn, which reduces shifting efficiency and causes excess wear on the rings and cassette; replace it. If the chain is fine, soak a clean rag with degreaser, and with your bike in a work stand, grasp the chain with the rag as you packpedal to remove grime. Then put a drop of lube on the top of each link and backpedal a few revolutions.
7. Adjust shifting
You can make your shifting smoother than a well-organized bank heist simply by following these foolproof steps for setting up your derailleurs. Clean parts are a must for this job, so make a drivetrain scrub the first step in this process, or, ideally, do this adjustment while replacing your chain or cables.
8. Inspect helmet for damage
When you replace your helmet depends how much you used it, how roughly you transported it and how much it was exposed to sun and heat. Fading color, delamination, frayed straps and distorted internal foam (not to mention cracks) indicate it's time for replacement. One rule: Always replace your helmet after a crash.
9. Check tires for cuts and wear
Deflate the tube to about half its pressure, so the tire is still shaped but pliable. Roatating the wheel in the frame, manipulate the tire with your hands to expose cuts in the sidewalls or tread. If you find any that go either entirely through the tire, or are deep enough to make you anxious, replace the tire. Rule of thumb for mountain tires: If five or more treads are ripped away, the tire is ready to fail systemically and should be replaced if you want to avoid lots of flats.
Check out the article here.
1. Inspect the frame for cracks
Cracks usually occur near welded areas, or where the frame is butted. Probably the most common spot is the underside of the down tube, just below the head tube. On carbon frames, it can be difficult to tell if you’re looking at a scratch in the clearcoat or a crack in the frame. If your fingernail can catch on the blemish, it might be a crack. If you have your suspicions, go to the shop.
2. Remove and lube your seatpost
Mark the height of your seatpost with tape or a pencil, then remove it, wipe it clean and, if it’s steel or aluminum, smear a light layer of grease over the section that goes inside the frame.
3. Check that wheels are clean and true
Dirty rims interfere with stopping power, so first clean the rims with a slightly abrasive pad, or just scrub hard with a rag soaked in dish soap, and then rinse and dry. Then, check to see if your wheels are wobbling. On warped wheels, the ride is rougher, you have less control, and you could end up on the ground if the wheel folds or a spoke breaks.
4. Adjust or replace your brakes
Glazed brake shoes cause weak braking and impolite squeals. Use sandpaper to buff off the glaze and roughen up the pads. Also pick out dirt, grit or pieces of metal that have become imbedded in the pad. If the pad has hardened so much you can’t scratch it with your fingernail, or if it’s worn past the indicator line, replace it.
5. Check cleats for wear
Worn-out cleats can be dangerous, with less predictable entry and release. They also offer less stability as the cleats float around in the pedal jaws, making you feel disconnected from the bike and ultimately reducing the amount of power you can lay down. Some manufacturers have wear indicators on their cleats. For other brands, watch for gouges and scratches at the engagement points at the front and rear of the cleat. If you have to tighten the tension of your pedals for them to hold your cleats in place, replace the cleats.
6. Clean or replace your chain
Place the edge of a 12-inch ruler over the pin of one link. The 12-inch hash mark should sit over another pin. If it doesn’t, the chain is worn, which reduces shifting efficiency and causes excess wear on the rings and cassette; replace it. If the chain is fine, soak a clean rag with degreaser, and with your bike in a work stand, grasp the chain with the rag as you packpedal to remove grime. Then put a drop of lube on the top of each link and backpedal a few revolutions.
7. Adjust shifting
You can make your shifting smoother than a well-organized bank heist simply by following these foolproof steps for setting up your derailleurs. Clean parts are a must for this job, so make a drivetrain scrub the first step in this process, or, ideally, do this adjustment while replacing your chain or cables.
8. Inspect helmet for damage
When you replace your helmet depends how much you used it, how roughly you transported it and how much it was exposed to sun and heat. Fading color, delamination, frayed straps and distorted internal foam (not to mention cracks) indicate it's time for replacement. One rule: Always replace your helmet after a crash.
9. Check tires for cuts and wear
Deflate the tube to about half its pressure, so the tire is still shaped but pliable. Roatating the wheel in the frame, manipulate the tire with your hands to expose cuts in the sidewalls or tread. If you find any that go either entirely through the tire, or are deep enough to make you anxious, replace the tire. Rule of thumb for mountain tires: If five or more treads are ripped away, the tire is ready to fail systemically and should be replaced if you want to avoid lots of flats.
Check out the article here.
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